Download PDF's of our installation instructions:

          Full or Partial Wall Installation
         Custom Mounted Commercial Panel Installation

Instructions for Full or Partial Wall Installation:  

Tools needed for installation:
            Marking Pencil
            Tape Measure
            Level
            Saw (hand-held, jigsaw, circular saw, miter saw, table saw)
            Adhesive

Step 1: Prep your surface

The wall surface you are attaching Slate-ish tile to should be painted a dark or similar color tone.  This will allow for any small variation in tile size or movement in level installation of tiles and not show any small gaps.   

Step 2: Layout and Installation

Mark Level lines every few feet up the wall to insure that you are installing the rows straight on the way up. 

We recommend clear silicone caulk for most installations.  If caulking squeezes out between tile, do not wipe off – simply allow to dry and use a utility knife to cut away any visible excess.  If the caulking does get rubbed on the tile, or transferred from your fingers, allow to dry and use a rough grit sandpaper to rub away. 

Starting at the bottom of the wall – either at the floor or on top of base trim, lay one row of tile at a time.  You can apply the adhesive directly to the wall, but we have found that applying it to the back of the tile give you more control over placement.   Start applying tile at one side, and when you come to the end of the row, mark the last tile that will need to be trimmed.  

Tiles can easily be cut with standard wood-working tools. 
We recommend a Miter Saw or Jig Saw.
Alternatively, you can overlap the tiles to minimize or eliminate cutting – be sure that the thinnest tiles are adhered to the wall surface – this will allow you to adhere a tile to its surface with little chance for visibility and the best surface for adhesion. 

Begin the second row of installation, making sure to stagger tile placement so that your joints do not line up.  Select tiles to vary as you apply them to the wall, in both length and thickness.  This will allow for the most uniform overall installation.  Make sure that you are lined up to your level lines as you work up the wall. If you are off-level, make small adjustments to spread out small gaps in each row.  This will minimize the visibility.

Once all tiles have been installed, allow adhesive to dry.  After adhesive is dry, cut away any caulking visible in between tiles.

Step 3: Maintenance

Surface treatments are optional, and will darken the color of the tile significantly.  These surface treatments can be spray on polyurethane (matte or satin finish) or oil based rub-on wood finishes.  Test a tile for the finished look before applying to all tiles.
Surface marks that cannot be removed with soap and water may be removed with acetone, including grease, permanent marker and paint.   Surface dust with a dry brush or brush vacuum attachment.

Tips and Tricks:

  • Only the thinnest tiles can be "easily" cut with a hand-saw, as Slate-ish tile is VERY hard.  If power tools are unavailable, you can overlap tiles to eliminate the need for cutting.  Simply take the thinnest end of any given tile, and adhere the next tile over a portion of the thin piece.   Your tiles must be of appropriate thickness to make this work well! 
  • For the best visual installation, vary the tiles in thickness as you place them - thin next to thick will be the most dramatic.
  • If any of your longer Strips pieces have a curve, simply cut them into smaller pieces so they will adhere appropriately to the installation surface. (This curve can be caused by the different internal stresses of the layers of paper and resin).
  • If some of your tiles have a smooth surface face - this is the BACK of the tile!  If you are using any adhesive besides silicone, you can abrade this with sandpaper for a better mechanical bond.  


Instructions for Pre-Mounted Custom Commercial Panels

Slate-ish can be purchased pre-mounted onto backer panels (MDF, Plywood, etc). Additional charges apply; call for details.

Tools needed for installation:

Marking Pencil
Tape Measure
Level
Saw (jigsaw, circular saw, miter saw, table saw)
Pin Nailer and/or Screw Gun
Adhesive

Step 1: Prep

Substrate must be flat and in good condition. Sheet rock or plywood is recommended. If applying over masonry, a layer of plywood, OSB or equivalent should be secured to wall first.

Step 2: Layout and Installation

These panels are secured to the wall using both construction adhesive and pin nails or screws.

Apply construction adhesive, adhesive caulk or other similar flexible adhesive to back of panels in 1” to 1 1/2” diameter drops spaced every 4 inches. Allow at least 2” to edge of panels for the adhesive spread out, alternating drops 1” above and below the center line along the length of panel.

(For individual tile installation, use small dollop of adhesive for each tile to minimize adhesive squeezing up through tile seams. See complete loose tile instructions above.)

Panels interlock with the lower panel securing the bottom of the panel above it. Pin nails (15-16 gauge) should be driven at an angle into the top lip of the panel and at both ends of the exposed backing material. Pins are used primarily to brace panels while the adhesive cures. If pins are not used panels may sag or otherwise move before the adhesive fully cures.

Panels can be cut with typical wood working tools. It is recommended to cut from the back of the panel with an up cut blade when using a jigsaw. This is to reduce the likely hood of pieces coming loose from panels. A slide miter saw with a trim blade works very well for straight cuts.

Individual tiles can be pried loose from backing to allow for necessary pin fastening. Retain the piece that was pried loose and reattach with clear acrylic or silicone caulk, hot glue or similar flexible adhesive.

It may be necessary to remove old adhesive from back of loose tile to allow for proper resetting of loose tile. Use blue or green no-residue masking tape to hold tile while adhesive cures.

Tiles may be removed and replaced anywhere the profile depth interferes with outlets, switches or other obstructions in the wall. Replace tiles to create a more uniform depth around such obstacles.

Exposed ends can be treated with accenting trim to cover the exposed backing material. Panels can also be mitered around outside corners and returned flat into an inside corner. Depending on size of panels, the backer thickness will range from 3/16” to 3/4”.

Panels with backing over 3/16” should use countersunk screws to secure panels while adhesive cures. Screws should be of a sufficient length to penetrate panel and substrate. Generally a screw should be at least 1 1/2” longer than the thickness of the backer material. Installer should use best judgment on type of fastener for the wall surface and panel thickness.

 

Step 3: Maintenance

Surface treatments are optional, and will darken the color of the tile significantly.  These surface treatments can be spray on polyurethane (matte or satin finish) or oil based rub-on wood finishes.  Test a tile for the finished look before applying to all tiles.
Surface marks that cannot be removed with soap and water may be removed with acetone, including grease, permanent marker and paint.   Surface dust with a dry brush or brush vacuum attachment.


Sealing SLATE-ISH

Sealing is not necessary. Sealing is purely aesthetic, and will not really offer any additional protection, as the material is already non porous. Sealing SLATE-ish will darken the color, and may make the material slightly easier to wipe off, as it will fill in ridges to a small degree. You may choose to seal SLATE-ish in areas of extreme wear or in locations that might receive moisture on the surface, or if you prefer a darker color or a gloss finish.
We recommend using a spray-on water based polyurethane, though this could be applied with a sponge or brush as well. Other coatings may be suitable, such as herbal oils (we use BioShield Herbal Oil #2 on our samples) - If you prefer to use another type of sealer, please test an area first. Gloss finishes tend to make the tile look more synthetic – a matte finish is more similar to actual slate or other natural stone.


Variation

Color variations are inherent in this material. Because our material is recycled and from various sources, the color may be different than representative samples. Different manufacturers, batches, and sources can result in differences in color tone, visible layering, and texture. We recommend mixing tiles in each shipment to assure even distribution of these variances. If variation has to be eliminated, contact us for details on additional charges for producing an entire job from one sheet of material. This is possible, but may require that we purchase new, non-recycled material.
The paper-laminates used to make SLATE-ish oxidize over time, darkening the color, whether the tiles have been sealed or left raw.